Preparing for puppy arrival

Finally! It was a go!

I was glad to have had a few days to plan and prepare for Dixie’s arrival. My immediate need was to get everything we needed to get us through the first couple of days. With the basics in place, I could focus on Dixie and keep things as stress-free as possible.

The first couple of days are about getting to know each other, so I didn’t need much to set up camp. Still, in my excitement, I bought too much; even worse, most of it was inappropriate for Dixie’s behavior and size. To avoid my money-draining mistake, I recommend getting a few things at the beginning, checking out the pup’s personality, and then going on a shopping spree!

You can start sizing things up (literally) during your first days together. If you are getting a young dog, you must account for growth. This will determine the size of many things, such as the leash, collar, harness, doggie seat belt, crate, and toy size. Many things will adjust as your dog grows, but you need to be smart. Take a few days and map things out; it will save you money and frustration in the long run.

It gets a little crazy trying to figure out what you need. After all, it is more fun to think about your new dog than what to buy. Still, here are some to-do items to get you through the first week or so. I will elaborate a bit below:

• Establish an eating station (a water bowl and a food bowl)
• Set up a Place for Sleep and Rest
• Get Some Dog Food
• Chew Toys
• Play Toys
• A leash and collar
• A towel, doggie seat belt, and harness for car rides
• Dog ID tags
• Pee and Poo Clean-Up Kit
• Barricades

Establish an eating station

You can use anything from an empty margarine tub to a gold-plated bowl for food and water. It helps to get something the dog can’t easily knock over. It also needs to be easy to keep clean – duh. Make sure it can hold plenty of water – big enough not to worry that she may run out if you are away for part of the day. Repeat – always make water available. Dogs can go without food for a reasonable period, but they can never go without water. Technically, they can go three days, but they start showing signs of dehydration much sooner than that. I mean, I can go three days without water, but it would not be enjoyable. The same holds true for your dog.

The first water and food bowl I bought for Dixie was a little ‘too cute.’ I bought little porcelain bowls that were too small for Dixie. She kept picking them up with her choppers, spilling water on the floor. On my second attempt, I got larger porcelain bowls that were a perfect size and heavy. I was confident that she wouldn’t be able to pick them up. Unfortunately, I was wrong. I quickly learned that virtually nothing is Dixie-proof.

For some reason, Dixie could not restrain herself from dragging, picking up, and dropping her water bowl on the floor, whether full or empty. That set of bowls did not survive more than a couple of weeks. Splat! Thump! A quart of water on the floor and broken porcelain sent me running for dull stainless steel. She can mess with those as much as she wants without fear of breaking them. It did not solve the spill-the-water game, but at least they did not break.

Set up a place for rest and sleep

If possible, set up a couple of comfy areas. Something in the central area used during the day, and another for quiet time. It does not have to be fancy; honestly, you can get by without one. I am too lazy to schlep beds from room to room, so I bought a couple of inexpensive ones and dog blankets.  

There are so many different types of beds that it takes time to pick the perfect one. Sometimes it boils down to trial and error. Start with something inexpensive so that if the dog tears it up or does not take to it, it is not a significant loss. Just get something comfy and cozy. It seems that most dogs like snuggle beds. If you want to wait and ensure you get a big enough bed for your dog, simply fold up an old comforter and pile up some fluffy blankets for him or her to snuggle in while you make up your mind. Raised beds (or cots) are good if they sleep in an area where the floor is cold, though you don’t need one for the first day. Wait until you see how they are growing so you can get one that ultimately will be big enough.

I opted for a snuggle bed and a pillow bed. Too bad Dixie viewed them as giant stuffed toys and annihilated them within a week. So off I went to find something a bit more indestructible. I did not have the option of buying something with a cute puppy paw pattern. Nope. They only came in black.

Get some dog food

Oh boy! That is a topic in and of itself. When choosing food, I recommend scouting around dogfoodadvisor.com and selecting food with a 5-star rating. Just buy a small bag because, contrary to popular belief, dogs will not eat everything you put in front of them.

It sounds crazy to spend tons of money on food, but it is one of the most important things. That is, in simple terms, the source of the nutrition needed for growth and overall health. It might cost more, but it is an absolute necessity. This is an area where you do not want to skimp. If forced to choose, I would spend my money on good food rather than overpriced toys.

Chew toys

NO rawhide! It can be dangerous! It is a choking hazard.

Until you know your dog’s chewing habits or how fast they grow, it will be hard to tell what is too big, what is too small, and what your dog can destroy. I bought Dixie about eight chewy toys; one survives today, and the others are in the bin alongside the shredded dog beds. Dixie is a hard chewer and was an excellent candidate for toys made for heavy chewers. Too bad most heavy-duty chew toys are black. Black bed, black toys, black dog. It is not very exciting, but it is functional.

Maybe your dog will be gentle with their toys, and you can get away with soft fluffy toys. You will not know what they like and need until you know. Hold off on spending until you find out.

Play toys

Yes. I learned that there is a difference between play and chew toys. Chew toys are something to gnaw on and help with teething. Play toys are interactive. Do yourself a favor and buy one or two inexpensive ones until you see what interests your dog. I purchased a puppy puzzle for $20. Dixie figured it out in literally 5 minutes. Bye, expensive puzzle. I gave it to a friend and opted out of puzzle games. It is all good; Dixie prefers chasing balls and catching frisbees over puzzles.

Leash

The recommended width, length, and material is based on the dog’s size.  I am not an expert in the leash department, but I know that some cities have ordinances dictating the maximum length you can use in public. Where I live, we cannot take a dog out on a leash any longer than 6 feet.

At the local pet store, leashes for everyday use usually range from 3/8” to 1” wide and 1 foot to 12 feet long and are made out of nylon cord or woven fabric (the options online and at specialty stores are enormous). Pick a mid-sized inexpensive one (during the first few days, you will probably only need it to take the pup outside to the bathroom and the vet anyway). Once you have sized things up, you can invest in one with the correct width, length, and material for the long haul.

Collar

As with leashes, they come in widths, sizes, and materials. Once I figured out which leash I wanted, the collar was easy. I could not remember how big she was, so I chose one 3/4” wide and adjustable. Once again, I lucked out.

You may have to measure your dog’s neck to get a proper-sized collar. Most have a size range. If possible, get one where your dog’s current size falls on the low end of the spectrum. A lot of the time, there is some overlap between sizes. If it fits, go for the larger one to allow room to grow.

When I picked up Dixie from the foster’s home, Dixie wore a little pink collar cinched as short as possible. It was perfect. That collar grew with her until she turned one year old. Then I had to get her a larger one. It stinks because I had grown quite fond of her rescue shelter collar. It reminded me of where she came from.

Dog ID tag

In case you have an escapee, splurge on an engraved dog tag with your name, address, and phone number. They are often less than $10 but become invaluable if your dog escapes.

Dog harness and seat belt clip

It is typically a good idea to prevent your dog from jumping all over you while trying to drive, and you certainly do not want them to go flying if you have to slam on the brakes. It will be easier to properly fit a harness with the dog to try it on. If you aren’t sure what size harness to buy, bring a friend to keep an eye on the dog while you drive the pup home, and then get a doggie car harness, or a crate for the car. Personally, I prefer the harness and seat belt. It gives Dixie a little room to walk around and stick her face out the window without flying through it in the event of an accident.

Doggie treats

Don’t buy any! Dogs have enough trouble transitioning from what they were eating to what you are offering. Feeding treats adds to the tummy stress. Use some kibble as treats. Food is food and can be a teat too.

Pee and poop clean-up kit

For puppies, get some pee pads. They are the only way to go during potty training. Use urine cleaner with enzymes for accidents in areas other than pee pads. The enzymes will eliminate the odor and other appealing qualities to prevent your dog from sniffing it out a second time. If you want to have fun, purchase a cheap UV light. One sweep over the floor at night, and you will see all the lovely places your dog has peed. Surprise! There were many more than I thought.

Keep some old towels, a spray bottle full of vinegar, and a box of baking soda on hand for older dogs or one that is on the brink of being totally potty trained. If the dog has an accident, blot it up, spray some vinegar and shake on some baking soda. Once it is dry, vacuum it up. This will kill any lingering scent and prevent recurrences in the same area. Well, that’s the theory anyway. For linoleum and hardwood floors, use vinegar. The baking soda makes an ugly mess. Of course, test it in an inconspicuous spot to ensure it doesn’t damage your floor.

Barricades

The first days are not an optimal time to give a dog the run of the house. Let them settle in and gradually increase access areas as they earn your trust (i.e., not chewing on furniture, eating shoes, peeing, pooping, or otherwise causing mayhem).

Determine how to minimize access to the whole house until they are potty trained and safe. Some people use dog pens; others use baby gates or closed doors. It doesn’t matter what you use as long as you have a plan.

Wrap

Well, that addresses what is helpful to round up or ponder before you head out to get your dog.

Once I had all the stuff I needed to get Dixie settled in, the real work started – deciding what to put in that food bowl, where to take her using that new little leash and collar, how often to play, how to rid the house of the pee and poo clean up kit as soon as possible (AKA potty training), and where to take her using that little car harness. The last one was easy; we took a ride to the vet.